Sunday, 3 May 2015

Burda 02/2015/128 Top

Hi all! It has been a few weeks between postings. I've been busy with other things although I can't really complain if life gets in the way of sewing when it involves other things I wanted to do. Life is short and I want to live it.

I bought February Burda when it reached the shops here because it had some fresh ideas in it rather than reworkings of previous themes.

One of the beauties is this cleverly pieced slit neck blouse Burdastyle 02/2015/128

If you don't have the magazine this pattern is available as a download. I made it up out of stash crepe and I-forgot-I-had-it satin, both polyesters of some sort, to see how it would sit. I wanted to do the front half of the seeves from the crepe but did not have enough fabric. I also wanted to play with an almost tunic length and ended up with a slight high-low hem which I like.

The pattern  can be traced off in three lengths - crop top, top or dress so I just added the back curve from the crop top and the straight front from the regular length top then added 16cm to the length of the front, the back and the front triange insert, then trimmed the shape a bit before hemming.

I made front and back neck facings rather than just a neckline bias band because my crepe frayed too much and didn't behave itself. Regarding construction I have to admit I did not read the burda instructions, which vex me at the best of times. (Tracing the pttern is bad enough!) But my order was this:  I assembled the front, then the back, then the sleeves then put the sleeves in using the flat method and stitiching the sleeve heads from angle to angle first, then clipping and pivoting the fronts then the backs. I find tricky pivots easier to do in stages! The neck facing was next.  Because of the crepe I used lots of stay stitching. Lastly I did small hems and there it is.

The pattern has a short sleeve as well and some girls on the burdastyle site have made summer tops from this pattern. It lends itself to two sided or border print fabric well with the border used for the back and front triangular insert pieces.

The pattern is in petite 17 to 21 and I  added 2 cm ease to the CF, CB and side seams fearing it would be too small but the pattern is roomy.

This was a bit of fun. I will wear this top, maybe just with blue jeans rather than the full biker outfit yes? But I wil definitely be making it again, possibly from a stable knit.

I have to run to work! Happy sewing,


Saturday, 4 April 2015

Burda 7783 again

Just checking in to say I made up Burda 7783 in a knit again, this time a more casual version in a python print. The material had been lying about waiting to be made up all summer and I couldn't quite decide what to make with it until now.

I made this dress much the same way as I made the rose print (see previous post) but I shortened the dress 2" at waist level to bring the pockets a bit higher. I also relaxed the fit a tiny bit. The centre front seam is a mistake caused by cutting out in a hurry before going to work during the week, but luckily it somehow looks ok. I have another between weather dress.

The shots were taken inside because it's been raining for days. They do say to be careful what you wish for!

Happy Easter to all,

Friday, 27 March 2015

Burda 7783

This is a remake!

Burda 7783 modified

I've made this dress from left over material and the skirt part of an old dress, pictured below. Click this for my review of M6069. First I removed the skirt from the top. I unpicked the skirt sides then joined the two parts together top to bottom then recut it to become the back of the new dress. I had enough of the rose material to make the front and the sleeves.

M9069 was popular when I made it and I jumped on the bandwagon. I wore the dress several times and enjoyed it but it was hard to make it work, you know, so it had been in the 'I'll do something with it one day' pile for  some time.
The thing is I  knew that I can do cowl tops with straight skirts, or simple tops with gathered skirts, just not both at the same time but I was seduced by how knockout it had looked on other reviewers. Have any of you been there?

But back to the Burda pattern, which had been in my stash for a while too. I love the lines of this pattern, just not the pocket darts or the Star Trek neck or the eeny weeny gathered sleeves. I like the curved seams going into pockets and the raglan sleeve so I simplified it to keep these elements for the rose knit. The pattern is designed for wovens but is close fitting so I made it up in the size I would normally use instead of going down a size as is recommended when you go from a woven to a knit. I unpicked the skirt of M6069 joined the two parts together then recut it to become the back of the new dress.

The back is simply cut on the fold and without the darts. I placed the joining seam across the back matching the level where the pockets meet the sides.

I narrowed sleeves at the bicep, pinching the gathering out then lengthening them. I did a bound neckline from a doubled over strip of selvedge cut 6cm shorter than than finished circumference of the neckline.

What would I change? The weight and drape of the ITY knit makes the whole dress drop a little. If I made it again in a knit I would fold out about 4cm from the midline of the front and back pieces.  BTW,  I am short and this would be a mini on most people. I wouldn't mind making it in a woven if I come across the right material in the stash. I keep finding things I forgot I had!

Have a good weekend folks,